2/11/07

Dr. Hogly Wogly's Tyler Texas Barbecue - Van Nuys

If you live in LA and like barbecue, sooner or later you'll go to Dr. Hogly Wogly's. This old time barbecue stop has been around since the 60's, serving authentic Texas barbecue to the Valley. It may be a bit of a drive for some Angelenos, but it's worth the wait - Dr. Hogly Wogly has some nice treats in store.

The first thing I noticed when I entered the restaurant was the dark wooden "old timey restaurant" feel. My waitress Carole was awesome. She knew exactly what to recommend for someone who wanted a good sampler. I ordered a 3-item sampler - Beef ribs (!!!), Spareribs, and Brisket. I was this close to trying the chicken, and when I return I'll definitely give it a try. The platter was 20-odd dollars, which is a lot, but this sampler easily feeds 2 or 3 hungry people.

Seriously. This thing was unbelieveable. The plate was MASSIVE. Thick slices of brisket, 3 absolutely gargantuan beef rib bones, and several great-looking spareribs. On the side I had a small cup of baked beans and another cup of macaroni salad. I didn't care for the mac because it was cold, which is my personal preference, but combined with the hot and spicy barbecue sauce (served on the side) it packed a lot of flavor. The fresh bread was also super good.

This photo doesn't do it justice. This plate was huge and juicy and awesome. It was dripping in the sweet and tangy marinade they use when they slow smoke the meat. Personally I prefer dry rubs to marinades, but as marinades go this is one of the best I've had. All the meat was moist and tasty, but the real star of the show was the beef ribs. It's rare for BBQ joints to showcase full on beef back ribs. They're big and unweildy and people don't know how to make them. But beef ribs are fantastic - I love it anytime I get to order them, and these beef ribs in particular were great and tasty.

The brisket was also tasty, although the marinade was a touch overpowering. But you could see the nice pink smoke ring around the edge and the texture was really juicy and tender. I like how thick the brisket was cut, which shows that they're not cheating on the tenderness, unlike some places that cut their brisket thin specifically because it makes it seem more tender. These thick slices were tender for real.

The spareribs were the only part I wasn't too crazy about. I think in general the marinade overpowered the natural flavor of the pork. It's a tasty tangy marinade, but it really made the ribs seem boiled instead of smoked. I know they weren't, but this is one of those reasons why I don't care too much for marinades. They weren't bad - on the contrary, they were delicious - but they could have been better.

The other star was the homemade baked beans. I don't know really what to say about them other then that they were unlike any baked beans I've ever had, and they're easily the best I've ever had.

Next time I have a chance to go here I'm going to forego the spareribs in favor of the chicken, which I saw on someone else's plate - it looks huge and juicy and well done. But the beef ribs are definitely a reason for me to return here. The brisket is great too. But overall it was too much food for me. A 2-item combo (or even just a 1-item situation) is more than enough for a single diner.

Despite its distance from the rest of LA, Dr. Hogly Wogly's has rightfully earned its place as the frontrunner of barbecue in the Valley. If you like massive portions with fantastic service, definitely take a visit to this staple barbecue joint.

PROS: Gargantuan portions, really friendly service, authentic Texas cuisine, the best baked beans ever

CONS: The marinade at times is overpowering, the spareribs are forgettable, sometimes it's -too- much food

CONCLUSION: Any barbecue lover in LA needs to visit Dr. Hogly Wogly's - authentic Texas barbecue, local LA history, and smiling waitresses await you.

Dr. Hogly Wogly's Tyler Texas BBQ is located at 8136 Sepulveda Blvd. Van Nuys, CA 91402. It's on Sepulveda just south of Roscoe (as Sepulveda is curving). You can visit their website at http://www.hoglywogly.com

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